Why You Should Know — and Trust — the Soapmaker You Buy From
Handmade soap is wonderful, but it’s not the same as grabbing a bottled body wash off a shelf. Soap is a chemical process: oils + lye = soap. When that chemistry isn’t respected, the result can be a bar that’s gummy, short-lived, or — worst case — harsh enough to irritate or burn skin. Because many small sellers post from kitchens, social media, or at markets, it’s easy for buyers to assume “handmade = safe.” That’s not always true. Here’s how to tell the difference between someone who knows what they’re doing and someone who’s hoping for the best.
The Essentials Every Safe Soap Should Have (and Why)
1. A Clear, Complete Ingredient List
Buyers need to know what’s in the bar (allergens, oils, additives). Sellers who list only “fragrance” or “mystery oils” aren’t being transparent.
What to expect: oils/butters (olive oil, coconut oil, shea butter, etc.), lye (sodium hydroxide), water or liquid (aloe, milk), additives (clays, botanicals), essential oils or fragrance. Good sellers include INCI names or clear, common names.
2. Honesty About Curing Time and Storage
Newly made soap contains extra water; curing lets that water evaporate so the bar hardens, lathers better, and lasts longer. Selling too-early bars often gives poor performing products and shorter shelf life.
What to expect: most cold-process soaps cure 4–6 weeks (some recipes longer). The seller should tell you when the bar was made or at least state the recommended cure time.
3. Correct Lye Calculation and Method
Using too little lye leaves un-saponified oils (greasy bar); using too much lye makes a caustic bar that can irritate or burn. “I added more lye because it wasn’t tracing” is a red flag.
What to expect: makers should use a soap calculator to match oils to the correct sodium hydroxide amount and should be able to explain their superfat percentage (e.g., 3%–8% superfatted).
4. pH Testing and Willingness to Discuss pH
pH tells you if saponification finished and if a bar is likely to be irritating.
What to expect: a cured soap’s pH commonly sits around 8–10. A seller who tests and can explain how/when they test is more reliable than someone unfamiliar with pH.
5. Sensible Essential Oil / Fragrance Use and Labeling
Essential oils must be used at safe dilutions; fragrance oils vary in formulation and safety.
What to expect: sellers who quote % usage or say they follow supplier/IFRA guidance, and who note if a scent is not suitable for pregnant people or children. “I kept adding EO until it smelled right” is a warning sign.
6. Proper Handling of Water-Based Additives
Many soaps include aloe juice, goat milk, coconut milk, herbal teas, or fruit/vegetable purees. These ingredients aren’t inherently unsafe — finished, cured soap is too alkaline for bacteria to grow.
The real concerns are about how these ingredients behave during the soapmaking process:
Heat management: Milks and purees can scorch or volcano if temperatures aren’t carefully controlled. Soapmakers may freeze milk, use ice baths, or add purees at trace instead of to lye water.
Sugars in additives: Sugars can speed up discoloration or lead to orange spots (DOS) if not properly accounted for.
Handling liquid content: Too much liquid can produce soft or crumbly bars if the water-to-lye ratio isn’t adjusted.
A knowledgeable soapmaker will understand these factors and adjust their recipe and process accordingly. When buying milk or aloe soaps, ask how the maker handles these ingredients, manages heat, and ensures consistent results.
7. Clear labeling and contact information
Why: good producers treat soap like any other small-batch product — batch numbers, contact info, ingredient list, weight, and storage instructions.
What to expect: labels that show at least: product name, full ingredient list, weight, maker contact (even just a small business page), and any allergy warnings.
Red Flags — Things That Should Make You Hesitate
No ingredient list or vague list
Eyeballing lye instead of using a calculator
Selling immediately after making (no cure)
Adding essential oils “until it smells right”
Following a single TikTok video without training
Evasive answers about ingredients, pH, or curing
Claims of medical benefits
Questions to Ask Before Buying
What oils and butters are in the bar?
When was this batch made? How long was it cured?
What superfat % did you use?
Do you test the pH of your soap?
How do you handle milk, aloe, or purees?
How much essential oil or fragrance do you use?
A confident, experienced maker will answer plainly and won’t be defensive.
How to Test a New Bar Safely at Home
Patch test: rub a small amount on the inside of your forearm, leave 24 hours.
Inspect visually: lumps, unmixed lye pockets, or tackiness are warning signs.
Smell: chemical or sour odors indicate problems; fresh, mild scents are normal.
Quick Buyer’s Cheat Sheet
Before buying:
✅ Full ingredient list
✅ Cure time stated (4–6 weeks typical)
✅ Seller can explain lye calculation and superfat
✅ pH testing or willingness to discuss pH
❌ Red flags: “I eyeballed the lye,” sold right away, “added EO until it smelled right”
At home:
Patch test 24 hours
Store dry between uses
Please ask questions below.
